Winter's Sweet Delight: The Evolution of Makkhan Malai Across Varanasi, Delhi, and Lucknow
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As winter sets in, three cities in India - Varanasi, Delhi, and Lucknow - come alive with the sweet and creamy delight of makkhan malai, also known as Mallaiyo and Nimish. This beloved dessert has traveled through generations, recipes, and regions, earning its place as a winter icon. Celebrity chef Ranveer Brar, who dedicated a three-part series to these cities, credits Benaras (Varanasi) with the origin of makkhan malai. 'The rich grass on the banks of the Ganga provides high-quality milk, which is then used to create the makkhan froth,' he explains. This traditional method involves stirring the fat and keeping it overnight under the winter dew. The three cities have their unique twists on the dish. In Lucknow, Nimish is a favorite, with the addition of rabri and dry fruits. Delhi's Daulat Ki Chaat, on the other hand, is made with a mix of khoya, malai, and dry fruits. While the process remains the same, the ingredients and presentation vary. Delhi's famous food hub, Chandni Chowk, has around 40-50 Daulat Ki Chaat points that operate from mid-October to March. Adesh, a fourth-generation seller, credits his family's tradition of making the dish since 1912. 'Our dadaji started it, and my father and I continue the legacy,' he says. In Varanasi, Kanahiya Rabjbhar has been selling mallaiyo for 23 years, emphasizing the importance of using fresh milk mixed with elaichi, kesar, and gulab jal. Lucknow's Rajesh Kumar, a fourth-generation seller, highlights the speciality of Nimish, which lies not just in its malai but also its base, where sweet milk is accumulated. Makkhan malai has become a favorite among celebrities, with singer-actor Diljit Dosanjh, actors Shilpa Shetty Kundra and Tamannaah Bhatia, and others sharing pictures and videos of themselves enjoying the dish. It's a must-have during shoots in Lucknow, and a constant demand from celebrities and crew members during winter schedules.
